A small point-and-shoot camera can help you capture moments your phone can’t, with better zooms, larger image sensors and even rugged waterproofing. Though most modern phones can take great photos, point-and-shoot cameras can offer higher quality, or at least different, photos. After years of decline in the point-and-shoot market, there’s a resurgence in interest. Brands like Canon, Nikon, Panasonic and others have released new models for the first time in many years. Whether you’re a young person interested in the retro «digicam» trend or someone who wants to take better or more interesting photos than what’s possible with a phone, here are the best point-and-shoot cameras to get in 2025.
What is the best overall point-and-shoot camera?
The Panasonic Lumix ZS99 is the best point-and-shoot camera overall. Though specific needs might make one of our other picks a better fit, the ZS99 is the quintessential point-and-shoot. It has a compact, pocketable size and an impressive 30x optical zoom. While it shines as a fully automatic camera, it also has manual controls to experiment with. Its 1/2.3-inch sensor is small compared with others on this list, and as a result, its low-light performance isn’t great; otherwise, it can capture great photos and videos of subjects near and (very) far.
- Impressive zoom for its size
- Screen rotates for easy selfies
- Easy to use for beginners, plus some manual features
- Image quality is decent, but not great
- Compact, but not «small»
- Low-light performance is mediocre
The Lumix ZS99 is a compact point-and-shoot camera with a big zoom range, making it easy to take everything from big group photos to close-ups of wildlife, the moon and architecture. It even records 4K video. It’s a great option for taking photos that aren’t possible with a phone, though its overall image quality lags behind others on this list.
For example, it’s not great in low light, though it does have a built-in flash for that retro «Y2K» look. Though there are manual features so you can adjust shutter speed and aperture like a «big» camera, they don’t have the range of higher-end cameras, so there’s little reason to use any manual modes beyond learning how to use them. Also, the screen, which can pivot up so you can take a selfie, doesn’t rotate like others. Otherwise, it’s a flexible and easy-to-use camera for travel and wildlife photos for posting on social media.
The Sony ZV-1 II recommended below is also worth considering. It’s more expensive but smaller and has a big 1-inch sensor, so it’s better in low light and captures smoother out-of-focus backgrounds (bokeh) for better portraits. Its zoom lens can go wider, but it lacks Panasonic’s reach.
- Excellent size
- Big image sensor
- HDF is a particular, but pleasing, aesthetic
- Fixed screen
- Perhaps too stealthy
- Aging tech, features
The Ricoh GR III HDF is an extremely compact, fixed-lens camera with a larger APS-C-size sensor (more typically found in DSLRs). It’s capable of some impressive image quality, but it’s this camera’s ability to capture that quality and still fit in a pocket that makes it stand out from its direct competitors, like the Fujifilm X100VI and Leica D-Lux 8.
HDF stands for Highlight Diffusion Filter, which, as Ricoh describes it, gives images «a soft, fluffy appearance.» It’s a somewhat dreamy, more analog look. Sometimes it’s subtle, a softening of some edges. Other times it’s quite noticeable, like if you’re taking pictures of someone in front of LED lights or in high-contrast situations. Sometimes it works great and creates a unique look. Other times it doesn’t seem to do much, but either way you can easily turn it on and off.
Though great overall, the GR III’s tech is several years older than what you’ll find in the other cameras here. Most notably this is reflected in its video capabilities, which are limited to 1080p. But it’s also lacking some of the fancier shooting options of the Fujifilm X100VI or Leica D-Lux 8. It is, however, smaller than even the Panasonic ZS99, so for travel and street photography, it’s a fantastic camera. There’s also the GR IIIx HDF, which is identical to the GR III HDF with the exception of the lens: It’s a 40mm lens, while the regular III has a 28mm lens.
- A photographer’s camera
- Capable of fantastic images
- Film simulation not a gimmick
- Good luck finding one
- Overkill for most people
- Similar results are possible with other cameras
If you’d told me before I started testing point-and-shoots for this guide that not only would I want an expensive, fixed-lens, APS-C camera, but I’d also actually buy one, I wouldn’t have believed you. Yet here we are. After two weeks with the Fujifilm X100VI, I spent my own money and bought one. In two decades reviewing gear, that’s only happened a handful of times. This camera is special… but it’s not for everyone.
The raw specs are impressive for the category, though not hugely so. It has a clever hybrid viewfinder, with an optical view, electronic and a combination of both. Myriad dials and buttons give you fast access to various (and often programmable) features, to help you capture the photo you want. The large screen folds out to assist when the camera is above or below eye level.
While the larger sensor and bright lens are certainly a good base for quality photos, it’s the camera’s film simulations that are a big part of why it’s such a joy to use. Until this camera, I’ve never used a color mode preset in any camera I’ve owned. I want a natural look from the camera, letting me edit to taste later before I post an image. But the film simulations here do such a good job adjusting the aesthetic of an image that little to no editing is required. It’s a radically different way to photograph anything in the modern era — a more filmlike way, if you will.
Though that’s a time saver, it’s not impossible to get similar results with a different camera, with a small amount of effort. Both the Ricoh GR III (which also has an APS-C sensor) and the Leica D-Lux 8 can capture similar-quality images, for instance. With some time in post, or just «slapping a filter» on a photo before posting on Instagram, you can get very similar results. You can even save presets, though not as many as the Fuji, to get specific results directly from other cameras.
The biggest issue with the X100VI is its popularity. Good luck finding one. Or at least, good luck finding one at the manufacturer’s suggested retail price. Waiting lists are long, and despite Fujifilm continually ramping up production, limited availability seems like it’ll be the case for the near future. Also, for a point-and-shoot, it’s larger than you might expect. It’s bigger than the Leica or Ricoh, though it’s still smaller than a typical DSLR and many interchangeable-lens mirrorless cameras.
- Leica aesthetic
- Great lens
- A bit of zoom for flexibility
- Expensive for a Micro 4/3 camera
- Not as pocketable as the Ricoh GR III
- Not as «fun» as the Fujifilm X100VI
The Leica D-Lux 8 is a sort of runner-up in both the travel and phone upgrade categories. It has something neither the Ricoh nor the Fujifilm do: an optical zoom. It’s not much, ranging from a fairly wide 24mm to a slight telephoto 75mm, but it’s more than the fixed offerings of the others. Inside is a 22MP Micro 4/3 sensor, of which 17MP is used. The body’s design is gorgeous in that timeless Leica way.
Images are sharp with rich color and a soft bokeh, but like any Leica product, it’s pricey. The Fujifilm has a larger APS-C sensor for similar money and has all its fun film simulations. The Ricoh GR III also has a larger sensor and is even smaller and cheaper. Neither has a zoom, however. Other than the price, there’s nothing wrong with the D-Lux 8, but it’s not the standout in any particular category either.
- Waterproof to 20m
- 4K video recording
- 5x zoom
- Image quality isn’t impressive
- Few first-party accessories
The Pentax WG-8 is a compact, rugged point-and-shoot camera that’s waterproof down to 65.6 feet (20 meters). Its 20-megapixel sensor can record 4K30 video, and it even has a 5x optical zoom. However, the camera’s small sensor and relatively slow lens make low-light imaging poor. A bright flash, though, helps underwater.
The image quality is reasonable but definitely doesn’t stand out. This camera’s main selling point is its ruggedness. It will work great for images and videos, especially while you’re snorkeling or swimming, and for posting on social media.
There are two things to consider. First, a GoPro or other action camera will produce better images and video and be physically smaller. With a dive case, they can go even deeper than the WG-8 for around the same price. However, GoPros have a fixed, wide-angle lens, which isn’t as flexible as the WG-8’s zoom in some situations.
The other thing to consider is the OM System TG-7, mentioned below. On the outside, it’s nearly identical to the WG-8, but it has a slightly different zoom range. Its image quality is generally better, and it can zoom while recording. More usefully, there are a lot of accessories available from OM System, including a dive case that lets you get to scuba depths with the camera, as well as wide and tele lens converters, flash diffusers and more. The TG-7’s starting price is higher, though, at $500. It’s a better camera; if image quality is your primary goal, that’s the one to get. If the camera’s ruggedness is what’s most important, the price of the WG-8 makes it the best option.
- Small
- Fully articulated screen
- 1-inch sensor
- Screen impossible to see with some sunglasses
- Video-focused (possibly a good thing)
- Almost as expensive as some APS-C cameras
Ostensibly a vlogger camera, the Sony ZV-1 II is an extremely capable point-and-shoot overall. A large, 1-inch sensor sits behind a zoom lens that ranges from an ultrawide, GoPro-esque 18mm to a portrait-friendly 50mm. A fully articulated screen lets you see what you’re capturing with the camera in nearly any position. If you don’t need the long reach of the Panasonic ZS99’s zoom, the Sony can capture better photos and does so in a smaller body. It’s far more expensive, though.
Though it’s generally easy to use, there are a few issues. The LCD screen was nearly impossible to see when using the camera outside with my sunglasses on. The polarization matched perfectly — a problem I didn’t have with any other camera I tested in normal use (and no screen in general in recent memory other than this camera’s immediate predecessor). The lens, great for selfies and arms-length recording, doesn’t let you «zoom in» on things, like the Panasonic can. A list price of $900 is also expensive, close in price to the Ricoh GR III with that camera’s far larger, better in low light, APS-C sensor. Though with that camera, you lose any zoom or articulated screen.
If you don’t mind the higher price and prefer wide over telephoto, the ZV-1 II is a great all-around point-and-shoot camera that takes great photos and videos.
Other point-and-shoot cameras we tested
OM System TG-7: The TG-7 from the company formerly known as Olympus is a step up from the Pentax WG-8 we recommend above. It has slightly better image quality, especially underwater, and has a variety of accessories available to make it far more capable in a wider range of situations. It can also shoot raw images, so if you’re editing photos in Lightroom/Photoshop you’ll have more range to make changes. The only reason it’s not the main pick is its price, 30% more than the Pentax. The savings seem logical for most people for something designed to be abused. For anyone who knows they want more than the Pentax can offer, the TG-7 is a superior camera.
Nikon CoolPix P1100: The P1100 is a recent refresh of the popular P1000 superzoom. It’s essentially unchanged, adding USB-C and Bluetooth. Its headline feature is a massive 125x optical zoom, reaching 3,000mm (35mm equivalent). I’m testing it and will have that review soon.
Point-and-shoot camera FAQ
What is a point-and-shoot camera?
A point-and-shoot camera has a fixed lens, i.e., it can’t be removed. And the camera is typically small and easily portable. Compare this to DSLR and most mirrorless cameras, which are usually much larger and have interchangeable lenses. In their heyday, most point-and-shoots had 3x or longer zoom lenses. However, with many people using their phones as their main camera, the category has shifted to lenses with a single focal length, called a prime lens.
Will a point-and-shoot camera let me take better photos?
Possibly. A point-and-shoot camera, in itself, won’t necessarily take «better» photos. In the hands of a skilled photographer, even a phone camera can take remarkable shots. The camera doesn’t matter nearly as much as the photographer’s skill (which anyone can learn, if interested). That said, the lenses and large image sensors in many point-and-shoots can definitely help you take different photos than what’s possible with a phone. (Plus, it’s distraction-free.) If your interest grows and you learn more about photography, these cameras can offer additional tools to get the photos you want.
Should I get a mirrorless or DSLR instead?
It depends. The same caveats in the above question apply here. Getting a better camera doesn’t automatically mean you’ll take better photos. You should learn all you can with the camera you have — phone or otherwise — and «grow into» a more expensive camera once you know what you’re looking for. If you know why you’d want a prime lens over a zoom, why you’d want f2 over f4, what aperture priority is and why you’d like to use it, then perhaps a mirrorless or DSLR is right for you.
Is a point-and-shoot camera good for beginners?
Generally, yes, given the caveats listed in the above two questions. Be sure the camera has manual modes to adjust the aperture and shutter speed. Learning how those, along with ISO, will change how an image looks is the foundation of all photography.
Should I buy used instead?
Maybe. There’s a strong resurgence in the popularity of older point-and-shoot cameras, sometimes called «digicams» on social media. These cameras, with their, let’s be honest, ancient tech, often have a unique look that’s hard to mimic with postprocessing and filters. If that’s what you’re going for, and not the ultimate in picture quality, but a specific aesthetic, sometimes an inexpensive used camera can do that without any editing.
However, many of these popular cameras are upward of 20 years old. That’s multiple lifetimes in tech. Not being able to find a battery, not being able to find a memory card (remember MemoryStick? No? There’s a reason), and definitely not being able to wirelessly connect to your phone, all present significant challenges, especially for anyone not super techy. As long as you keep all that in mind, you can definitely save money getting used.
I’ve bought used camera gear on KEH, and a similar company is MPB. Both offer used gear that’s been checked out by experts to ensure it actually works. What you find there might cost a little more money, but it offers peace of mind that you’ll get a working camera. There’s also Adorama, B&H Photo, local stores (if you’re lucky) and, of course, there’s Facebook Marketplace, Craigslist and eBay.
What about this Canon/Sony/Nikon/etc. camera I heard about?
There are several popular cameras we haven’t covered in this guide, including models from Sony, Canon, Nikon, Panasonic and others. These cameras often appear on these company’s websites with a cryptic «out of stock» message. Does this mean they might someday be in stock? Maybe, maybe not. In several cases, in my initial research for this guide, I was told by representatives that the company was «de-prioritizing» a camera and wanted to focus on another model. This is almost always company-speak for «if there’s any left in some random warehouse, we’re selling them, but we’re not making more.» If a camera is a few years old, especially pre-2020, used is probably the only option, as it’s doubtful it’s coming back.
What is happening is that companies are refreshing older models, usually adding USB-C so they can be sold in Europe, and Bluetooth 5.x for easier connectivity with modern phones. That’s something we’ll likely see more of in the future.
Things to consider when buying a new camera
Beyond megapixels and sensor sizes, the main question is how you plan on using the camera. We’ve set up our recommendations based on that idea. Are you looking for something with a greater zoom than your phone, for wildlife photos? Do you want something that lets you capture better images than your phone? How about something small and discrete for travel and street photography? All the cameras on our list can take «good» photos, some better than others, but as the saying goes, the best camera is the one you have with you. One that fits your needs is more important than its raw specs.
Sensor sizes
Broadly speaking, a larger sensor can absorb more light. This improves image quality in low light and also makes better bokeh possible, which is the soft, pleasing, out-of-focus background common with close-up and portrait photography. So, all else being equal, a larger image sensor makes better photos possible.
This isn’t an absolute, carved-in-stone rule, however. In most situations, many people would have a hard time telling the difference between the APS-C sensor in the Ricoh GR III and the smaller Micro Four Thirds sensor in the Leica. Lenses matter, processing matters, the specific sensor matters and more than all that, the photographer’s skill matters. An experienced photographer with a high-end phone could easily take «better» pictures than someone with a huge, full-frame mirrorless camera who doesn’t know how to use it. Learning to use whatever camera you have will result in better photos, not just buying a more expensive camera.
In terms of what we’ve reviewed here, these are sensor sizes from smallest to largest:
- 1/2.3-inch: Panasonic ZS99, Ricoh WG-8, many phones
- 1-inch: Sony ZV-1 II
- Micro 4/3: Leica D-Lux 8
- APS-C: Fujifilm X100VI, Ricoh GR III
- Full-frame (no cameras in this guide): The same size as a 35mm negative used in many mid- and higher-end mirrorless and DSLR cameras.
Megapixels
All modern cameras can take extremely high-resolution images. You can print these images, and all will look fine on social media. Most point-and-shoot cameras are usually in the 20-25 megapixel range. This allows for a fair amount of cropping and you’ll still have a detailed image. The Fujifilm X100VI is an exception, with a 40-megapixel sensor. You can zoom in on the images from this camera or print larger images that still look sharp.
Higher megapixel numbers don’t reflect overall image quality. Resolution is merely one aspect of an image’s appearance, and many other factors are more important. A camera with a big 2-megapixel full-frame sensor will be able to produce a better-looking image than a tiny 50-megapixel 1/2.6-inch sensor in a phone.
How we test cameras
After checking settings and features, I spent several days, often more, with each camera, taking photos and videos in a variety of situations. This included day and night, inside and out, and a variety of subjects, including animals, people, landscapes and more. In the case of this guide, most of the cameras were available at the same time, allowing for the comparison of nearly exact subjects and lighting conditions.
The results are then scrutinized and pixel-peeped on a QD-OLED monitor and compared side by side.
In addition to covering audio and display tech, Geoff does photo tours of cool museums and locations around the world, including nuclear submarines, aircraft carriers, medieval castles, epic 10,000-mile road trips and more.
Also, check out Budget Travel for Dummies, his travel book, and his bestselling sci-fi novel about city-size submarines. You can follow him on Instagram and YouTube.
